If you have a brick veneer house, the sill plate does more than most people realize. It ties the wood frame to the foundation, carries the weight of the walls, and keeps the base of the building aligned. When termites chew through that first course of lumber, the damage can travel quickly into rim joists, floor joists, and even wall studs. The veneer often hides the problem until floors go spongy or the door trim starts to pinch. By then, the work is no longer cosmetic. It becomes termite structural repair with real consequences for safety and long term value.
I have pulled thousands of feet of chewed sill plates out of crawl spaces and basements. Brick veneer adds extra steps and a few traps, from concealed moisture behind the bricks to tricky access at the rim. The repair is doable and durable if you respect sequence, use the right materials, and coordinate closely with pest treatment. Skipping any one of those tends to show up later as recurring infestation or continuing settlement.
Why the sill plate fails, even behind “solid” brick
Brick veneer is a single wythe of brick tied to the wood frame with metal anchors. It is not structural masonry. A small air gap sits between the brick and the sheathing, with weep holes near the bottom to drain moisture. Termites love this arrangement because:
- That air cavity can hide mud tubes and keep them protected. Weep holes and cracks in mortar give discreet entry points at grade. Splashback from clogged gutters wets the base of the wall, softening wood. Older flashing details sometimes dump moisture right at the sill, especially when the original membrane has aged or was never lapped correctly.
Once inside, termites move along the sill plate, then upward into studs or sideways into rim joists and joist ends. If there are slab porches, stoops, or patios poured high against the brick, you may see direct bridging into the veneer cavity. I have opened walls where the outer brick looked perfect yet the bottom 2 inches of the sill had turned to paper.
Early signals homeowners notice
You cannot see the sill plate in most finished homes, so you notice second order symptoms. The subtle ones matter.
- Doors start rubbing the latch side near the bottom, or locksets go out of alignment after rains. Baseboards wrinkle or pull away from corners, and caulk lines crack at the floor. Floors feel springy along exterior walls, especially near corners or under windows. Paint blisters low on interior drywall, with faint coffee colored staining along the base. Mud tubes appear at the foundation, including behind shrubs or inside the crawl.
If you see two or more of these together, set aside time for an inspection. Ignoring it for six months can turn a small span repair into a whole side of the house, which multiplies cost and downtime.
What an experienced inspection looks like
A proper assessment starts outside. I look for the relationship of grade to brick, the state of weep holes, downspout discharge, and any patios or steps that bridge up the wall. Mortar condition tells me how likely water is moving behind the veneer. I check the spacing and visibility of brick ties where possible, then I walk the interior perimeter with a moisture meter.
Under the house, I probe the sill plate every 8 to 12 inches with an awl. I do not just stab the face, I check the top edge where it meets the rim and the inside corner where joists bear. The difference between surface frass and deep loss shows up in how the tool enters the grain. I map soft areas in chalk, check joist ends for rot or galleries, and look at supports, from piers to beams. If the house has a basement, I study the anchor bolts and washers to see if they are rusted, loose, or cleanly set in sound wood.
Two other areas deserve attention in brick veneer homes:
- The flashing at the base of the veneer. If the bottom edge is buried or improperly lapped behind the sheathing, water often runs to the sill. Rim insulation. Foam stuffed against the rim can mask termite tubes and trap moisture, so I remove small sections during inspection.
I also ask whether treatment has happened. A clean, fresh looking mud tube can reform in days if the colony remains active. Repairing without coordinating termite repair services is like replacing tires without fixing the nail.
Treatment comes first, then structural work
No carpenter can outbuild a live colony. Active termites will move into new lumber as happily as old wood. The sequence I use:
- Confirm a current treatment plan. Liquid soil termiticide, bait stations, or targeted foam in voids all have their place. In brick veneer, I like to see soil treated under exterior edges, plus foam into rim cavities where galleries are found. Get written documentation from the pest professional with the treatment map and warranty terms, typically one to five years depending on method and region. Schedule repairs within one to three weeks of treatment, not months later. This timing reduces the chance of rebound activity and keeps detection fresh.
If you are searching phrases like termite repair near me or structural termite repair near me, ask each provider how they coordinate with pest control and whether they have preferred partners. Good teams save time and reduce finger pointing.
Setting the stage: safe access, shoring, and protection
Sill plate repair requires removing load in a controlled way. I install temporary shoring using adjustable steel columns with 4x6 or double 2x6 headers under floor joists, placed back from the exterior wall by 2 to 3 feet. Spacing depends on joist size and span, but a typical setup is every 4 to 6 feet. The goal is to lift just enough to relieve bearing on the sill, not to jack the house high. Too much lift pops drywall and cracks tile.
Before any cutting, I locate utilities. Gas lines and electrical often run along the rim. Old houses can have lead paint on the rim or silica in mortar dust, so I set up plastic containment if interior finishes are exposed and run a HEPA vac during cutting.
With brick veneer, cutting access is more delicate. You rarely remove brick, so you approach from the interior. On framed basement walls, I pull the bottom 12 to 18 inches of drywall and insulation to expose the rim and sill. In crawl spaces, I clear debris and insulation, then set lighting so I can see fasteners, bolt heads, and joist pockets.
Choosing materials that resist both bugs and water
Modern termite wood repair is as much about prevention as replacement. For the sill plate itself, pressure treated lumber rated for ground contact is standard. I check the tag for retention levels appropriate to the local code, usually .15 to .40 pcf of preservative depending on species and product. If moisture is a chronic issue, kiln dried after treatment helps control shrinkage.
Between the sill and concrete, I add a capillary break, typically a foam sill sealer or a self adhering membrane rated for sill use. Where termites are a known problem, adding a metal termite shield that projects slightly beyond the face of the plate creates a visible inspection edge that forces termites to build around it, which makes new tubes easier to spot. The shield must be lapped and sealed at corners so it actually works.
For the rim joist and blocking, I use treated lumber where it contacts masonry and standard kiln dried lumber for interior members to control movement. Joist hangers, straps, and anchors should be hot dip galvanized or stainless if the environment is damp, since the chemicals in treated wood can accelerate corrosion of standard steel.
If I need to treat adjacent wood in place, borate rods or a penetrating borate solution offer added insurance. They do not replace professional treatment, but they help protect cut ends and existing framing.
The core repair sequence, step by step
Here is the condensed sequence I use on brick veneer houses, refined over many jobs and a few hard lessons.
- Stabilize structure with temporary shoring positioned 2 to 3 feet in from the exterior wall, set on solid pads. Remove interior finishes as needed to expose the rim, sill, and joist ends, keeping debris out of the crawl or basement. Detach mechanicals and utilities that cross the work zone, labeled and photographed for reassembly. Cut out damaged sill plate in manageable sections, usually 4 to 8 feet at a time, keeping at least one bay of intact plate between cuts where possible. Install new treated sill with a continuous sill sealer, re anchor to the foundation, reattach rim and joists with appropriate connectors, then move to the next section.
Repairing in sections helps keep loads predictable and reduces the chance of racking the wall. Full length removal can be done, but it demands heavier shoring, more hands, and a higher risk of collateral damage to finishes.
Getting the sill out without hurting the rim or brick ties
On paper, you unbolt the sill and lift it out. In the field, anchor bolts are often rusted, threads are gone, and the plate has fused to tarry old sill gaskets. I cut the plate into segments with a recip saw, minding the blade near the face of the brick and the line of anchor bolts. If bolts cannot be unthreaded, I cut the nuts and sometimes the bolts, then drill out the remaining wood around the shank. Where the foundation requires new anchorage, I plan replacement to meet current code.
The rim requires finesse. In many homes, the rim is face nailed or toe nailed to the sill and the joists. When the plate is rotten, the nails release and the rim sags. I support the rim with blocks screwed to the joists while the sill is out. If the rim has lost section, I sister a new rim board or add blocking between joists and use hangers to ensure loads go to the new sill evenly.
Brick ties are usually screwed or nailed through the sheathing into studs or the rim. If ties are corroded or loose, I replace or add ties from the interior where possible. Stainless or hot dip galvanized is worth it at the base of the wall.
Anchoring the new sill to today’s standards
Anchorage keeps the frame married to the foundation during wind or seismic events. Older houses relied on widely spaced half inch bolts. Many jurisdictions now want half inch or five eighths bolts at specified spacing, with plate washers, or an approved anchor system. In repairs, I often use adhesive set anchor bolts where existing bolts are not salvageable. The key points:
- Drill holes with edge distances that respect the foundation thickness, then vacuum out dust before injecting epoxy. Use plate washers sized to code to prevent pull through. Where vertical clearance is tight, side mount hold downs or retrofit plates can add shear capacity without interfering with the brick.
Coordination with your local inspector is smart. A 10 minute conversation can save a return trip.
Joist ends, subfloor edges, and beam pockets
Termites do not respect boundaries. Once the sill is compromised, nearby members are often softened too. I check each joist end in the first two bays. If a screwdriver sinks more than a quarter inch easily, I open the grain and test deeper. When there is loss, I either sister the joist with a new member bearing on the new sill, or I hang the existing joist on a ledger or hanger attached to the rim and sill. Termite floor joist repair ranges from one or two ends per wall to half the run on bad houses.
Subfloor edges take a beating where leaks or condensation mixed with termite activity. I cut back to sound wood, stagger seams, and glue and screw new panels. In kitchens and baths over exterior walls, this often reveals why the sill failed in the first place, like a long term drip under a sink or a leaky hose bib.
If a beam pocket in the foundation holds a wood girder that shows damage, I crib and jack under the beam, then either replace the end, add a steel bearing plate and sister, or in severe cases, swap the beam. Termite beam repair is less common than sill work but has high stakes when it appears.
Working alongside the brick veneer and flashing
The base flashing of the veneer should shed water to the outside, not into the cavity. During repairs, I examine the bottom of the cavity from the interior. If flashing is torn or mis lapped, I install a new interior apron style flashing that bridges from the sheathing over the termite shield or sill sealer to the inside face of the brick. This is fussy work, but it reduces water tracking to the sill.
Weep holes must remain open. If grade or mulch blocks weeps, I recommend regrading and clearing. Repointing missing mortar near grade helps reduce splashback. If homeowners want to seal the brick, I steer them away from non breathable coatings. Trapped moisture is the enemy.
Interior finishes: drywall repair after termite treatment
Once framing is secure, finishes go back. Termite wall repair is never just patching, it is sequencing to avoid trapping moisture. I leave opened areas vented for a few days while borates and any residual dampness dissipate, then close with new drywall, tape, and paint. If base trim was removed, I prime the backside before reinstalling to give it a little moisture resistance at the slab or floor line. Where cabinets run along exterior walls, I seal penetrations and check for leaks before setting them back.
How long it takes and what it costs
Time and cost vary widely with access and scope. A straightforward termite sill plate repair covering 12 to 20 linear feet in a crawl space with easy access, minimal joist repair, and no complicated utilities might take 2 to 3 days with a two or three person crew. Add time for drying conditions or heavy shoring.
Costs depend on region, but to give a reality check:
- Limited repair, one wall section with a few joist ends and basic anchorage, often lands in the 3,500 to 8,000 range. Moderate repair, 20 to 40 feet with multiple joist sisters, significant anchorage upgrades, and drywall restoration, is commonly 8,000 to 18,000. Extensive repair, corners, beam pockets, subfloor replacement, utilities relocation, or difficult access, can push 20,000 to 40,000 or more.
Termite damage restoration always sits on top of pest treatment. Treatment plans for a typical house can run 800 to 2,500 for liquids or bait systems termite wood repair initially, with annual fees for monitoring. Pair the two in your budget.
DIY or hire it out
Plenty of handy homeowners can handle light termite wood repair like replacing a small subfloor edge or sistering a joist. But sill work is structural. It involves shoring, anchorage to code, and knowledge of how loads move through the frame. There are safety risks if you misplace a jack post or clip a gas line. In brick veneer homes, you also deal with hidden cavities and moisture dynamics. That is why most people look for local termite damage repair or a wood repair contractor termite damage near me for this scope.
If you do hire out, evaluate more than price. Ask for photos from similar projects, not just references. Confirm the contractor holds the right insurance for structural work and that they pull permits when required. If someone says permits are not needed for replacing major structural members, be cautious.
Coordinating with inspectors and engineers
Many municipalities treat sill replacement as structural repair. An engineer is not always required, but I bring one in when:
- More than a third of a side of the house needs replacement at once. There is noticeable settlement or out of level conditions that will require lift. Wind or seismic requirements are stringent and older anchorage is substandard.
Engineers can specify anchor patterns, tie downs, and any shear upgrades needed when finishes are open. Their stamp helps with resale and insurance.
Moisture management is the quiet half of the job
You can repair everything perfectly and still lose if water keeps coming. I assess downspout discharge first. Extend it 6 to 10 feet away or into drains. Correct negative grade that sends water to the wall. If the crawl space is damp, add a ground vapor barrier and consider a dehumidifier. In basements, seal obvious cracks, but focus more on exterior water management than interior paints.
Inside rim cavities, avoid stuffing fiberglass tight against the sheathing at the base. If you insulate, consider rigid foam sealed at edges, which resists wicking and leaves a small service cavity where inspectors can spot tubes later. Keep weep holes clean. Trim shrubs back 12 to 18 inches so sunlight and air reach the wall.
A brief look at related repairs
Termite subfloor repair, termite framing repair, and even termite attic wood repair sometimes join the party. Attic damage is usually from drywood termites, a different species and treatment plan, but the carpentry is similar in principle. On the main level, I see rim board delamination around garage doors and ledger connections at decks that were not flashed. In those cases, adding proper flashing, isolating treated wood from fastener corrosion, and using the right hangers makes the difference. If drywall is heavily damaged at the base after treatment, replace sections rather than skim coating over compromised gypsum.
What success looks like one year later
The best compliment is silence. Doors swing cleanly. Floors feel solid along exterior walls. The pest professional’s annual check shows no new tubes. In the crawl space, you can read the labels on hardware because humidity is under control. The termite shield or sill sealer edge is visible, a simple line you can scan during seasonal chores. If something drips, you notice it early because you have clear access and a habit of peeking.
Finding the right help locally
If you are searching termite damage repair near me or termite damage contractor near me, look for teams that do both treatment and structural work, or two firms that regularly coordinate. Ask specific questions:
- How do you stage shoring and avoid over lifting walls with brick veneer attached? What is your plan for anchorage to current code, and will you submit drawings if the jurisdiction asks? Can you show before and after photos of termite sill plate repair jobs, including rim and joist end details? How do you handle moisture, from downspouts to weep holes, not just the wood replacement? What warranties do you offer on both treatment and carpentry, and how do they interact?
If a contractor says they will foam a cavity and call it done without addressing the sill, keep looking. If a pest company refuses to coordinate timing with the carpenter, that is a red flag. Good projects feel orderly. The work area stays clean. Decisions get explained in plain language.
A final word from the crawl space
Termite damage looks dramatic when you first see it, but the repair follows a steady rhythm. Stabilize, expose, replace, re anchor, and protect. Brick veneer complicates access and moisture, yet it also gives you cues if you know where to look. Done well, a termite sill plate repair feels invisible when finished. The house carries its weight again, quietly, the way it should.
If your house is hinting at trouble, do not wait for a door to stop latching or for a baseboard to crumble in your hand. Call a reputable local termite damage repair team, schedule a thorough inspection, and expect a written plan that includes both treatment and carpentry. That blend of chemistry and joinery, applied in the right order, is what keeps a brick veneer home strong at its foundation for decades to come.